Bulb is term in photography that reffers to the shutter speed. we know that shutter speed is measured with respect to seconds. i.e. 1/30, 1/60, 1/125, 1/.200, etc. The slowest shutter speed that normally given in a camera is 30 seconds. What you have to shoot below this shutter speed. Lets say you have to shoot at 5 minutes shutter speed. Usually this type of shutter speed is not provided in camera. Instead of pre-programed shutter speed, every camera have the "bulb". In bulb mode you can open the shutter as long as you desire by simply pressing the click botton.
Thursday, June 30, 2011
Wednesday, June 29, 2011
importance of tripod
tripod is the one of the most essential accessories in photography. if you are taking photo in low shutter speed then there is a chance of camera shake & blur in photo. to prevent this tripod plays a great deal of role. even in high shutter speed, you can use tripod to capture steady picture. tripod is recomended in all the conditions as it improves steadyness in camera.
Sunday, June 26, 2011
photographic accessories
You want to improve your photography? Here’s a few tools every photographer should start with. Remember, fancier cameras do not make you a better photographer. The following list starts with the most important items.
Tripod. For shooting anything other than sports (and even that sometimes) nothing makes sure your images are sharp and crisp looking better than a tripod. I even use it for portraits as it allows me to get my face out from behind the camera and talk to my subjects.
Polarizing Filter. Assuming there is a screw mount on your lens to accept filters – this often helps make pictures more saturated and reduces glare.
Hand held meter. Yes, your camera has a built in meter. Bad news, that meter occasionally lies. Imagine my disgust the first time I shot in winter on a cloudy day. I had some good compositions but the pictures were all dark grey. With a hand held meter used properly – the snow would have been white. Plus, if you start to play with professional lighting, you’ll definitely need one.
To use one, hold the meter so it measures the light hitting the subject. For portraits, that is usually the brightest light hitting your subjects face. However, if you’re downtown (or in a canyon) and the light is coming from straight above – or if the brightest light is a rim light from behind – hold the meter at the subject’s position pointing towards the camera, measuring the light which will bounce back to the camera.
If you do buy a meter, get the sales person to give you a demonstration on how to use that specific meter as there are some differences among the types.
More lenses. Get a wider angle or longer lens than you have. Once you’ve gotten used to the lens you bought with your camera, its always good to push yourself with new viewpoints brought on by new lenses.
Tripod. For shooting anything other than sports (and even that sometimes) nothing makes sure your images are sharp and crisp looking better than a tripod. I even use it for portraits as it allows me to get my face out from behind the camera and talk to my subjects.
Polarizing Filter. Assuming there is a screw mount on your lens to accept filters – this often helps make pictures more saturated and reduces glare.
Hand held meter. Yes, your camera has a built in meter. Bad news, that meter occasionally lies. Imagine my disgust the first time I shot in winter on a cloudy day. I had some good compositions but the pictures were all dark grey. With a hand held meter used properly – the snow would have been white. Plus, if you start to play with professional lighting, you’ll definitely need one.
To use one, hold the meter so it measures the light hitting the subject. For portraits, that is usually the brightest light hitting your subjects face. However, if you’re downtown (or in a canyon) and the light is coming from straight above – or if the brightest light is a rim light from behind – hold the meter at the subject’s position pointing towards the camera, measuring the light which will bounce back to the camera.
If you do buy a meter, get the sales person to give you a demonstration on how to use that specific meter as there are some differences among the types.
More lenses. Get a wider angle or longer lens than you have. Once you’ve gotten used to the lens you bought with your camera, its always good to push yourself with new viewpoints brought on by new lenses.
shutter
A shutter which limits how much time light is allowed to enter your light-tight box. The measurement for the shutter is the “shutter speed,” also known as Stops, which is measured in fractions of a second like 1/30th, 1/60th, 1/125th, 1/250th, 1/500th and so on. You can see a little easier how each might vary the exposure by either half as much light, or twice as much. Exposure times can also vary from 1/8000th of a second to several seconds. Some systems can use up to hours of exposure
When hand holding the camera, its important to make sure the shot is not blurry from camera shake. You should have the shutter set to the “same number” as you lens length. For example, if using a 50mm lens, you want a shutter speed of at least 1/60th of a second. If you’re using a 135mm lens, 1/125th is okay, but 1/250th would be better. I’ve found with digital, because most have a multiplier effect (the sensor is smaller than 35mm film, and effectively make the lens 50 per cent longer) you need to set the shutter accordingly. If using a 50mm lens on a digital SLR, I set the shutter to the half stop of 1/90th or faster.
If you don’t have enough light for the exposure I recommend a sturdy tripod. If you have a questionable speed, you can try bracing yourself against a post, tree, or other stationary object. I never stop from taking the shot even when I’m doubtful, you never know – you might get a great shot anyways.
When hand holding the camera, its important to make sure the shot is not blurry from camera shake. You should have the shutter set to the “same number” as you lens length. For example, if using a 50mm lens, you want a shutter speed of at least 1/60th of a second. If you’re using a 135mm lens, 1/125th is okay, but 1/250th would be better. I’ve found with digital, because most have a multiplier effect (the sensor is smaller than 35mm film, and effectively make the lens 50 per cent longer) you need to set the shutter accordingly. If using a 50mm lens on a digital SLR, I set the shutter to the half stop of 1/90th or faster.
If you don’t have enough light for the exposure I recommend a sturdy tripod. If you have a questionable speed, you can try bracing yourself against a post, tree, or other stationary object. I never stop from taking the shot even when I’m doubtful, you never know – you might get a great shot anyways.
how camera works
All cameras from the simplest to the highest of high tech share some basic features.
Lens. The lens is made up of layers of glass which are each shaped to focus incoming light onto a surface used to expose the image.
Light sensitive medium. In digital cameras this is a sensor – which comes in a variety of types but all basically change light into an electrical signal. In film cameras, the exposure takes place on, you guessed it, film.
A variably sized hole call the aperture. Located in the lens, the aperture control is a series of blades which changes the amount of light passing through lens. The aperture’s basic unit of measurement for how much light is getting through is the “ƒ Stop.” A whole Stop change in aperture lets in either half as much light or twice as much light. On your lens (or in the view finder, or maybe on an LCD menu on your camera) you typically see numbers like ƒ1.8, ƒ2.8, ƒ4, ƒ5.6, ƒ8, ƒ11, ƒ16, and ƒ22.
Lens. The lens is made up of layers of glass which are each shaped to focus incoming light onto a surface used to expose the image.
Light sensitive medium. In digital cameras this is a sensor – which comes in a variety of types but all basically change light into an electrical signal. In film cameras, the exposure takes place on, you guessed it, film.
A variably sized hole call the aperture. Located in the lens, the aperture control is a series of blades which changes the amount of light passing through lens. The aperture’s basic unit of measurement for how much light is getting through is the “ƒ Stop.” A whole Stop change in aperture lets in either half as much light or twice as much light. On your lens (or in the view finder, or maybe on an LCD menu on your camera) you typically see numbers like ƒ1.8, ƒ2.8, ƒ4, ƒ5.6, ƒ8, ƒ11, ƒ16, and ƒ22.
shutter speed
You’ve probably seen those pictures of a race car or bike rider where the subject is in fairly sharp focus but the background is blurry with streaks denoting speed. Perhaps you’ve seen a waterfall that looks like flowing silk. Or you seen a picture with someone totally frozen in place during an athletic moment.
These are a result of creatively using the shutter on the camera. High shutter speeds, such as 1/500th, 1/1000th, 1/2000th or higher (remember these are fractions of a second) create a stopped motion.
Alternatively, slow shutter speeds such as 1/15th, 1/4, or even whole seconds, creates a sense of motion through blurring of some part of the picture.
One of the issues is quite often if the shutter speed is too slow, an image can be blurry from “motion blur” which can detract from an image if the effect isn’t intentional.
For sharp pictures a tripod is a very handy tool to free up your choice of shutter speeds.
Alternatively, you can hand hold a camera to surprisingly extended times with good technique: place the bottom of the camera body in your left hand and support its weight with that hand, then tuck your left elbow basically into your lower left rib cage. Finally hold the viewfinder close to your eye and use your right hand to trigger the shutter and further stabilize the camera. Breath in and let your breath out slowly while squeezing the shutter.
These are a result of creatively using the shutter on the camera. High shutter speeds, such as 1/500th, 1/1000th, 1/2000th or higher (remember these are fractions of a second) create a stopped motion.
Alternatively, slow shutter speeds such as 1/15th, 1/4, or even whole seconds, creates a sense of motion through blurring of some part of the picture.
One of the issues is quite often if the shutter speed is too slow, an image can be blurry from “motion blur” which can detract from an image if the effect isn’t intentional.
For sharp pictures a tripod is a very handy tool to free up your choice of shutter speeds.
Alternatively, you can hand hold a camera to surprisingly extended times with good technique: place the bottom of the camera body in your left hand and support its weight with that hand, then tuck your left elbow basically into your lower left rib cage. Finally hold the viewfinder close to your eye and use your right hand to trigger the shutter and further stabilize the camera. Breath in and let your breath out slowly while squeezing the shutter.
depth of field
Depth of field – also sometimes known as depth of focus – is an area many photographers feel some confusion over.
By changing the aperture in the lens, you can make the resulting picture have more of the picture in focus from near to far, or you can limit the picture’s focus on one place.
At ƒ1.8, the focus point will be much more defined with things in front of and behind the subject becoming softer looking the further from the subject they are. This is a very nice way to bring attention to the subject.
At ƒ22, the focus will seem to be sharp from very close to the camera to pretty much infinity. This is great for giving a sense of the place you shot the image, or for including many people in the image and keeping everyone clearly in focus.
However, there are limits to how that will appear in the final image.
By changing the aperture in the lens, you can make the resulting picture have more of the picture in focus from near to far, or you can limit the picture’s focus on one place.
At ƒ1.8, the focus point will be much more defined with things in front of and behind the subject becoming softer looking the further from the subject they are. This is a very nice way to bring attention to the subject.
At ƒ22, the focus will seem to be sharp from very close to the camera to pretty much infinity. This is great for giving a sense of the place you shot the image, or for including many people in the image and keeping everyone clearly in focus.
However, there are limits to how that will appear in the final image.
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